Plans are designed on the fly, mostly gleaned from other stovies posting their build videos on YT. Rhéal, the gentleman helping me is a great neighbor, has a well equipped shop and I met him as he was planning to build a conventional wood stove. I believe we were brought together on this project by design more than by chance, Anyways, he wanted a new wood stove, and I needed a place and equipment to build myself one too.. I extolled the virtues and benefits of Rocket Stove Heaters, their combustion efficiency and thriftiness on combustibles and he was skeptic when I told him he would no longer need to cut 7 cords of wood to heat his shop. Rheal is 80 years old and understandably, not a techie nor is he into YT or the Web but after I showed him some of the YouTube Stovie videos on my smartphone, he agreed to help me build my 1st RSH in his shop, in exchange for some materials,some cash and a little know-how (as this my first build).
Hats off to fellow stovies;
and all others committed to designing, recording and mostly posting their plans and build videos on YouTube to promote this technology and their respective skills, knowledge and experiences. Without all you fellas I wouldn't know where to begin.CHEERS, Y'ALL !!
This build includes;
4", .25" thick square tubing riser, burn chamber, feed tube system. 6 inch galvanized stove pipe with perlite for insulation stuffed between it and outside of the riser tube. Burn chamber 20.5" long, riser 21.5" high.18'' long (at inside angle) 20 degree angled 4'' feed tube. An expanded steel grate will be inserted right to the back of the "J" in the burn chamber and bent upwards to allow air to flow under the feed tube. A 3.5'' wide, 13'' long, 1/16'' thick stainless plate will be inserted under the expanded steel grate to act as a heat reflector to help minimize heat transfer to bottom of burn chamber. Another thinner ss plate will be inserted between burn chamber and bottom 20'' x 20'' plate to further decrease heat transfer. A 3'' wide, 2 inch deep slot will be cut on the front end bottom of the burn chamber and a trying2lhard designed 3.5 inch section of pipe will be capped on one end then welded to cover air inlet slot with a screen to catch sparks/embers. A rotating cover on the open end of pipe will allow air inlet adjustments or dampening. . A trying2lhard designed front burn chamber glassed door will be added when test burns are completed. A basic, hinged, magnetically fastened thin metal plate for feed tube cover and temporary burn chamber air inlet choke. A small, 13.5'' dia. lube barrel will cover the riser tube assembly and be custom cut and sealed with stove cement where the feed tube and burn chamber exit the barrel at the bottom, front part of the stove. A 20' 'x 20'' 1/8th'' thick base plate will be welded to the bottom of the burn chamber, then fastened to the bottom of barrel using 6 uniformly, radially distributed 90 degree tabs welded to the barrel with holes drilled through the bottom plate allowing nuts and bolts to fasten it together. High temp sealant will be added to make this joint leak-proof. The barrel will also be cut into 2 sections near the top part, to allow inspection and clean-out. This joint will be secured by a homemade aluminum band clamp and sealed with high temp sealant to make it leak-proof. I may have to weld a 1/8'' thick 13.5'' diameter plate to the top of my barrel in the future if it gets too hot, too quickly, to reduce risk of meltdown or burning my freaking trailer down with me inside of it!! Four 10'' legs fabricated from angle iron and large flat washers for feet will be welded under the base plate recessed inwards about 2'' from the trimmed corners. A 4'' diameter hole will be cut near the bottom of the barrel for the exhaust. A 4'' aluminum elbow will be inserted through this hole & fastened by cutting and flaring 3/4'' tabs on the inside of the barrel, using high temp sealant or stove cement to make this joint leak-proof. A 24'' aluminum pipe section will then be clamped to the elbow, then a 4'' flexible dryer vent tubing will be clamped to that 24'' pipe and a 4'' hole will be cut through the RV wall near the roof line, with the flex tubing extending out the wall up & over the roof line into another 12'' of 4'' vent pipe with a ppotty1 designed swivel cowling assembly at the very top to prevent any downdraft. When I can find a suitable, lightweight material for a thermal mass I may include it into my design to conserve all possible exhaust heat..Thanks for watching ,commenting and subscribing.